Church of San Sisto Vecchio

Hidden Gem near Baths of Caracalla & Lenten Station Church

The Church of San Sisto in Rome, located near the Baths of Caracalla, has a long and complex history marked by transformations and changing uses over the centuries. Originally a large early Christian basilica with three naves, it underwent significant alterations as early as the Middle Ages, eventually taking on its present form during the late 16th century under the patronage of Cardinal Filippo Buoncompagni. This renovation coincided with broader efforts by Pope Gregory XIII and Pope Sixtus V to address the issue of poverty in Rome.

Pompeo Ugonio, in his 1588 guide to the Lenten Stations, identifies San Sisto as the site of the twenty-second station on the Wednesday after the third Sunday of Lent. He explains that the church is dedicated to Pope Sixtus II, the mid-third-century pontiff known for his association with St. Lawrence and his execution during the persecutions of Emperor Valerian. In Ugonio’s time, the church was undergoing restoration after a period in which it had served as a shelter for the poor, a project initially established by Gregory XIII. However, due to difficulties in managing the influx of beggars, Sixtus V later relocated them to a new facility near Ponte Sisto, allowing for the church’s restoration to move forward.

Ugonio notes that, unlike many early Christian churches, San Sisto is no longer a basilica with multiple aisles but instead features a single, open worship space. At that time, the adjacent monastery was in poor condition, though remnants of its dormitories, corridors, loggias, and refectory still stood. While the monastery had historically housed Dominican nuns, only a few Dominican friars remained to care for the site due to the unhealthy air in the area. Despite these challenges, the late 16th-century renovations helped revive San Sisto, restoring some of its former splendor.

More photos, videos, and mass times coming soon.